O Cebreiro

Much has been written about the many connections between Galicia in North west Spain, especially in the mountainous area around O Cebreiro, and the Celtic culture in the rest of Europe, especially Ireland. The now outdated theory was that the Celts Originated Elsewhere And Traveled To Spain. There is much new evidence that says it happened the other way, that the Celtic culture arose in Spain and travelled, likely by sea to places like Ireland, Wales, Scotland and Brittany.

Son Matteo who is in genomics gave us spit tests one year that would give your genotype and the geography of that group. It was no surprise that Brian’s father’s side went first back to Iteland, but what was a surprise was that centuries before that it went back to northern Spain.
Again to the taxi as bus service is spotty & there are numerous taxi services serving pilgrims, either transporting their packs or them if them if they are unable to walk. The ride up into the mountains has spectacular views.
The village is small with a church and about 10 or 12 buildings, at least 5 of them pensions for pilgrims with bars/restaurants and about four shops selling things for pilgrims or tourists from the occasional tour bus. The buildings are all made of stone. There are three palozzas, the old circular stone houses with thatched roofs, similar to some of those found in Ireland.
They were inhabited up until the 1960s but are now part of an ethnographic museum which was being visited by a group of school kids who wanted to practice their English & who were so excited to meet people from California that the were still talking about it an hour later.
Took a lot of pictures but can only add a couple.
Sometimes when I’m in small old towns like this I feel like I’m walking around centuries ago. But then I turn a corner and see something like this.
The garbage truck! Back to reality. We also ran into Fr. Jim and Joe who were also at mass that night in the small church. (A pilgrim collapsed during mass and Fr. Jim gave him last rights just in case he was ‘checking out’, but he seemed to recover okay.)
I loved the beautiful and unusual face on this Madonna.
Finally, O Cebreiro is the first town as you come into Galcia, which is famous for it’s pulpo, octopus stew. I tried a bite of someone else’s and it wasn’t bad. Will have to order it.


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